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Vedette - exclusive footie gear for girls









[Interview with Katie Walker, continued]

How did you research the football fans you're designing for?

Very academic. I was an art historian before I went into this. I love, love, love, the library at the Victoria and Albert Museum, so I went there about a year ago and put 'soccer' in the computer, and it came up with a couple of articles that were in The Face in the 1980s about Casuals that referenced the most amazing PHD thesis by a bloke who was at the RCA. I don't know what his name was but he had gone undercover in Sheffield in the late 70s and the early 80s amongst football fans that were so passionate about their clothes. They were all unemployed, they all wore clothes as an expression of who they supported.

He was talking about one boy on an industrial estate who was walking along looking for work and he looks on the other side of the street and he sees someone with a new thing like a pair of Kickers, and he said that it just made his heart leap. It was one of the most important days of his life, he was so passionate about what he'd seen and that so appealed to me because I thought that is a fashion movement that doesn't come from magazines or celebrities, it is a fashion movement that is on the street. I just thought this is so exciting, if I can just inject a little of that feeling into my ranges it would be brilliant.


Football clothes are an expression of working class culture - your take on it is from a female perspective. Can you see female fans wearing your clothes on the terraces?

I went to Ibiza last summer and most of the girls on the flight had their replica kits on. I think that there is something about going on holiday and basically saying who you are very quickly because you want to meet strangers and have a good time, so I had that in the back of my mind. A lot the the dresses are for holidays, I've got a lot of vest dresses.


Are you designing bi-annual collections for Vedette?

It is bi-annual but I decided that instead of going with the fashion seasons that it would be quite fresh to go with summer/autumn winter/spring like the football seasons. A lot of retailers worry that their clothes look a little tired come May they want new stock in and that will be when my new range comes in.


When will it be available?

I would like it to be the shops at the same time as the new kits - May. the first collection is summer/autumn 2003.


Did you get to deal with many women at the clubs you approached?

Yeah! When I went to see Man U, it was a women who I dealt with. When I first got the idea I thought it's going to be a long haul. Also Newcastle United it was a woman that I dealt with. Arsenal and Chelsea were enthusiastic, helpful and visionary from the word go. I could not speak more highly of them. Fantastic. They're totally up for it. They had a have quite an open mind and be quite imaginative, it's so different from anything they have done before.


Did you take to the streets and see what people were wearing to the matches and did you see the Arsenal double homecoming?

I went to the pub on Liverpool Rd the night that Arsenal did the double and the thing that I could see is that a lot of the girls put on their replica kits and customised them. The girls make them smaller and wrap their scarves around in a sexy way and what I wanted to do was to give them a product they could buy off the peg and out on and feel sexy.


How did you work out the prices? Obviously you have used some very expensive and high quality fabrics.

Yeah, like the cashmere. It's absolutely top of the range. My history is not in sports merchandising, it's in fashion. I went to Antwerp and studied there.











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