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Gio Palmiero [pictured left] designs with passion. She combines Italian taste for elegance and tailoring with comfort and creativity to produce womenswear that's all about simple style. Her own-name label was launched two years ago at London Fashion Week and three collections later, she has an international cult following.
Brought-up in the UK with Italian parents ("my mother was a machinist and I started making my own clothes when I was really small but I never thought I could be a designer"), Gio did a BA at Harrow before gaining an MA place at the Royal College of Art. "I decided to spend a year in Milan working in a studio before doing the MA. I thought it would be great - I was expecting it to be like working for Versace or something, but it wasn't and I really missed London!" On her return, she passed-over the RCA for an offer from Central St Martins. "I don't think that St Martins is the best. I worked all the way through college pattern-cutting at studios and I really think you've got to do that. It's not enough to know how to design, you've got to know the construction side as well."
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Gio's studio is based in her terraced house in Islington. "We bought the house from McQueen," she beams but refuses to reveal any of Lee's (aka Alexander) domestic secrets. "Well, we did find a few strange things when we moved in, but I don't want to say anything else!" Her designs reflect her own natural beauty and subdued sensuality. If she didn't design her own clothes she would shop at "small independent shops and wear Helmut Lang."
The design process begins by sourcing fabrics to express themes and ideas and she loves mixing classic with modern fabrics. 'A Touch of Blue' for spring/summer 99 features minimal details and fluid silhouettes. Prince of Wales check appears alongside lace netting, silk and wool. The autumn/winter collection inspired by the millennium is called 'Cyber Princess'. Despite the futuristic title, the 50 piece collection focuses on rich ruby silk taffetta bodices and jackets trimmed with peacock feathers, cropped trousers, grey funnel-neck tunics, ruffle neck dresses and soft woolen jumpers. The colour palette of grey and warm reds is punctuated by sequins and smatterings of silver.
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Technology is an important part of Gio's life. "I can't live without my computer," she confesses. "I just can't write by hand anymore - even the note to the milkman gets typed on the computer. It's sad." Her latest project is a unisex range. "I like designing menswear as well as womenswear and the idea of a unisex collection which is more affordable really excites me." The unisex collection will be sold in her first shop which she hopes to open in London this year.
As a successful independent designer, Gio is a rare breed but she has no illusions about the industry. She advises designers starting out to get with fashion reality. "Don't expect to survive on fashion alone, it's so fickle. Don't go into fashion unless you have backing, it can be too much. You are always buying upfront and sometimes you have to wait two years to get paid!" Even when you are successful, it's a constant struggle to keep the business going.
"The big surprise is that those stores you'd think would pay you quickly don't. Get deposits from everyone and make sure you are insured." Sound advice.
Palmiero costs £100-£300 and is available from independent fashion outlets. Email here for details of your nearest stockist.
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[photos: Ian Tatton | Palmiero]
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