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New Generation Designers

f.uk profiles seven New Generation designers.

New Generation was set up in 1993 to provide young designers with a promotional platform. Previous award winners include Alexander McQueen, Antonio Beradi, Clements Riberio and Pearce Fionda.

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Lara Boeing 747

Space Age jewellery which redefines the linear. Sleek silver neck braces, slinky silver neck chains and headphones that wire more than your ears.

Designer: Lara Bohinc Matthews Date of Birth: 10/1/72 Place of birth: Ljubljana, Slovenia. Background: I studied at the Academy for Fine Arts, Ljubljana, Slovenia and the Royal College of Art (Jewellery and metalwork), London, UK. What is your spring/summer 98 collection inspired by? Aeroplanes, water, science and mermaids. Name the 3 most important influences on your designs. London. The colour red. My husband, Simon and my friend Roger Lee. What's your favourite accessory? Shoes. One can't live without them. Which celebrity would you most like to see wearing your designs? Any - they are just people. I'd like interesting, creative and intelligent people to wear my designs. What frustrates you most about fashion? Fickleness, clique-iness and the idea that fashion is so important when it's not really. It's all about looking good which is not such a big deal after all. What would you be if you weren't a designer? A movie star. Stockists: Koh Samui: 65 Monmouth Street, London W1. Tel: 0171 240 4280. Pellicano: 63 South Molton Street, London W1. Tel: 0171 629 2205. Whistles: 12-14 Christopher's Place, London W1. Stockist enquiries tel: 0171 487 4484. Web: Click Here

Palmiero

All woman designs influenced by 1960s Italian cinema. Sleek fit, metallic lace and crochet knitwear which splashes into swimwear.

Designer: Giovanna Palmiero Date of Birth: 02/12/70 Place of birth: St Albans, UK. Background: BA, Harrow (University of Westminster) and MA Central St Martins.

What is your spring/summer 98 collection inspired by? The haunting 1959 Antoinoni film, 'L'Avventura'. Set at the end of summer, blue/grey skies reveal stormy clouds and black rocky islands which stand alone in a vast ocean. A group of friends are cruising the Mediterranean and stop at an island to swim. A young woman from the party disappears and it's never revealed whether she has survived or drowned. Name the 3 most important influences on your designs. Family & friends. The culture and atmosphere of different countries. New fabrics and shape. What's your favourite piece of clothing? A black metallic lace half-lined dress from my own spring/summer 98 collection because it feels cool, light weight and very sexy. Which celebrity would you most like to see wearing your designs? I would like to see a strong beautiful woman like Helena Christensen in one of my dresses on the cover of 'Vogue'. What frustrates you most about fashion? Nothing. I love it. What would you be if you weren't a fashion designer? Idealistically, an interior designer. Realistically I'd probably be a chef like my father, creating exciting new dishes. Maybe I could put the two together and be the next Terence Conran. Stockists: Koh Samui: 65 Monmouth Street, London W1. Tel: 0171 240 4280.

Gharani Strok

Sheer layers and delicate fabrics cut into simple, elegant silhouettes is the key signature for the designs of Nargess Gharani and Vanja Strok.

Designers: Nargess Gharani and Vanja Strok Date of Birth: [no response] Place of birth: [no response] Background: We attended Epsom School of Art and Design together and went on to set up our business in 1995.

What is your spring/summer 98 collection inspired by? Ourselves (what we want to wear). Name the 3 most important influences on your designs. Fabrics. Textures. Warm countries. What's your favourite piece of clothing? Dresses because they're easy to wear. Which celebrity would you most like to see wearing your designs? Jasmin Le Bon, Helena Christensen, Demi Moore and Cameron Diaz. What frustrates you most about fashion? The politics. What would you be if you weren't a fashion designer? Photographer, stylist, buyer or sculptor. But we'd also love to own a restaurant or bar. Stockists: Koh Samui: 65 Monmouth Street, London W1. Tel: 0171 240 4280. Pellicano: 63 South Molton Street, London W1. Tel: 0171 629 220.

Julien MacDonald

Knitwear innovator Julien MacDonald is a phenomenon. The youngest of the New Generation designers, his hand-made dresses with eclectic add-ons such as silver scouring pads, original '20s beads and bird of paradise feathers stolen from antique hats mark his style. Ready-to-wear knits drip shape and sensuality.

Designers: Julien MacDonald Date of Birth: 19/3/72 Place of birth: Merthyr Tydfyl. Background: I graduated from Royal College of Art in June 1996 after attending the University of Brighton. My graduate collection was sold to A La Mode in London. Before leaving college, I had already produced work for Chanel and Karl Lagerfield both of whom I still design knitwear for.

What is your spring/summer 98 collection inspired by? 3 things. A yellow luminous Nike trainer. A solid gold bar necklace and a coconut. Name the 3 most important influences on your designs. Isabella Blow. Mary Queen of Scots. My Mother. What's your favourite piece of clothing? An Edwardian hand painted jacket because it preserves the past and presents the future. Which celebrity would you most like to see wearing your designs? Lisa Stansfield because she's British. What frustrates you most about fashion? The lack of time. What would you be if you weren't a fashion designer? A perfumer. Stockists: A La Mode: 36 Hans Crescent, London SW1. Tel: 0171 584 2133.

Matthew Williamson

Simple, hand-beaded, embroidered pieces in neon colours epitomise innovative newcomer Matthew Williamson's designs.

Designers: Matthew Williamson Date of Birth: 23/10/71 Place of birth: Manchester, UK. Background: I graduated from Central St Martins in 1994.

What is your spring/summer 98 collection inspired by? Things with wings: Dragonflies, butterflies etc. Name the 3 most important influences on your designs. Traditional skills and techniques. Travel to hot climates, notably India. Antique clothes. What's your favourite piece of clothing? An indigo felted wool scarf by Asta Barrington as it was made especially for me. Which celebrity would you most like to see wearing your designs? Kate Moss, Jade Jagger and Helena Christensen already wear my clothes. What frustrates you most about fashion? The last minute frantic rush! What would you be if you weren't a fashion designer? I've never thought about it. Stockists: Browns: 23-27 South Molton Street, London W1. Tel: 0171 491 7833. A La Mode: 36 Hans Crescent, London SW1. Tel: 0171 584 2133.

Fake London

Cashmere sweaters are Fake's main fare combined with a flare for innovative knits made from vintage sweaters which are recut and recreated with British motifs and appliqué. Best known for their geometric 'football' sweaters.

Designers: Desiree Mejer Date of Birth: [no response] Place of birth: South of Spain. Background: Self taught, I worked mostly freelance in Germany and the UK before starting up my own label in 1993.

What is your spring/summer 98 collection inspired by? English sports (football, daysports) and English symbols and heritage. Name the 3 most important influences on your designs. Friends. London. Fashion as fun. What's your favourite piece of clothing? CP goggle jacket. Which celebrity would you most like to see wearing your designs? Tiffany from Eastenders. What frustrates you most about fashion? Being copied. What would you be if you weren't a fashion designer? A photographer. Stockists: Browns: 23-27 South Molton Street, London W1. Tel: 0171 491 7833.

Seraph

Seraph originally started as a diffusion from top label Ghost. Now designed by Sherald Lamden, it's progressed into a 'stand alone' label which is heavily influenced by London's Asian underground culture.

Designers: Sherald Lamden Date of Birth: [no response] Place of birth: [no response] Background: I worked with the Ghost team for three years before creating the Seraph line.

What is your spring/summer 98 collection inspired by? Independence and India. Name the 3 most important influences on your designs. Friends. London. Classic books and films. What's your favourite piece of clothing? Denim trousers because there is nowhere I would go without them. Which celebrity would you most like to see wearing your designs? I don't care about seeing celebrities in my clothes. I like seeing nice people in my clothes. What frustrates you most about fashion? The cost of it. What would you be if you weren't a fashion designer? A designer. Stockists: Liberty: 214-220 Regent Street, London W1. Tel: 0171 734 1234.

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