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| fashionUK | |
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| Dexter Wong |
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The show started to the Asian-industrial beats of drum and bass genius, Talvin Singh (below). As Talvin mashed on the decks a blue light bathed the audience and then images of Hitchcock and 50s film stars were projected onto a screen. The light then transformed into sunrise orange and 'Fifties Futuristic Asylum' kicked off with Tiger print yellow tops worn over crochet skin-tight pedal pushers. Yellow, navy, gold and silver forms the basis of the colour palette in a collection which fuses 50s shapes with futuristic fabrics and styling. Women's baggy flannel pants featuring super-high belted waists appeared alongside cropped safari tops and narrow dresses. Swimwear included ultra minimal sexy trunks with zipped fronts for men and 50s bathing suits with flared skirts for women. Dexter's menswear has always been clever but his use of fabric and tailoring techniques in this collection are outstanding. Men's silver Macs, fitted jackets with belt features and elaborate crayon-like prints on paper fabrics all add glamorous elements. A jungle theme is apparent throughout with net tops for men and women and combat trousers with bell and bottoms for blokes. Other menswear highlights include silver panelled pants combined with black and grey casual shirts and intricate transparent printed tops. For women, bird flock prints are set against slim-fitted skirts, dresses worn over pedal pushers and sequined overall dresses. Despite the reference to 50s in the title and the Hitchcock imagery projected throughout, there is nothing retro about this collection. In fact, it's probably the most contemporary collection seen all week.
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