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Diary - An Insider's Guide to London Fashion Week
The international fashion calendar allows for two seasons - autumn/winter and spring/summer. Twice a year, ready-to-wear collections are shown in four fashion capitals, New York, London, Paris and Milan. While London's Fashion Week isn't considered the most prestigious, it is recognised as a major source of new fashion talent. In recent seasons, London has 'lost' some of its most respected designers including Hussein Chalayan and Alexander McQueen. Two of the UK's most successful designer exports - John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood - regularly show at Paris Fashion Week and the chances of them returning to London Fashion Week are probably slimmer than your average catwalk model's wrist.
This season, Fashion Week was at Duke Of York's Headquarters, just off the Kings Road. The shows started on September 12 and ended five days later.
Day OneThe first day can be difficult for designers showing because visitors are still arriving and finding their way around. Those judged important enough by the British Fashion Council are allocated a personal chauffeur and a Rover car. Everyone else has to take one of the buses usually provided by Harrods, aka the boogie buses. Unfortunately, this season there was only one boogie bus, so when folk tried to get from the JulianAndSophie show on site in Chelsea to the next scheduled show, House of Jazz over in E1, many were left standing in the street. JulianAndSophie's first on-schedule show was made possible by a New Generation fashion award. The collection combines Julian Roberts' experimental, geometric cuts with Sophie Cheung's textile designs. This season, the goody bags which are put on the front rows of the shows filled with gifts to entice people to come to the show, were more in evidence than ever. Audiences come equipped with their own enormous bags to fit in all the freebies. Michiko Koshino rocked out another cool collection which includes her denim range, Yen jeans, the military-inspired 100, and a mainline collection featuring duster coats and kimono dresses. In the evening, a new off-schedule event, Red Blue, showcased collections by Nothing Nothing, Antonio Ciutto and Erika Trotzig at the spectacular Kensington Roof Gardens. |
Fashion week blagger's bag. |
Passing the time backstage. |
Day TwoThe church that worships Sophia Kokosalaki declared her the saviour of London Fashion Week, s/s 2003. Sophia is into sexy streetwear and leather and her clothes make stylists and editors dribble. Markus Lupfer staged his show at Lord's cricket ground and showed a Powerpuff Girls film (weird, but designers get sponsorship from wherever they can) as well as his new line of accessories. Day ThreeThe pack are hunting for the Next Big Thing. By 10am a crowd has gathered at Old Billingsgate Market for the three-pronged catwalk carry-on that is Fashion East. This off-schedule event has become one of highlights of the week. Each season, three designers get money towards producing their collections and the opportunity to show them on a catwalk. Jens Laugesen's collection is Ground Zero 01, an eerie, impressive range of white 'reconstructed' clothing, while Roksanda Ilincic gives us mad, colourful dresses which seem inspired by European ethnicities. Finally, Mrs Jones, aka Fee Doran, delivers an explosive collection rife with punk, rock, goth, rasta and ragga references. Sara Cox and Zoe Ball snogged for the cameras. |
Day FourTanya Sarne's Ghost got James Lavelle in to do the music. Russian sisters Tata Naka showed a heavily embroidered collection watched by designer Russell Sage who sat in the front row next to two gatecrashers (the gatecrashers said they liked the clothes). That night, the Primrose Hill undie queens, Frost and French, threw a celebrity -infested party in Regents Park. Day FiveFake London takes over a warehouse in Wood Lane. Waiters dole out free champagne and ice cream vans suppliy soft whips to all. I-d magazine's Marcus Ross is the "style editor" of the collection which features fat Fake bags, corkscrew accessories and bottle-shaped napsacks. There are elastic bands on some of the shoes and loads of people in audience wearing their own Fake togs. |
Designer Russell Sage watches the Tata Naka show. |

