Reigning Designer of the Year, Hussein Chalayan transformed the manic mood of London Fashion Week into serenity and contemplative calm with the showing of his 'before minus now' collection at Sadler's Wells Theatre. The stage was a white canvas, the perfect backdrop for a show which was akin to a live art installation with music. A pianist and a violinist played throughout.
Hussein gathers together a dreamscape of beautiful colours - almond green, static white, sunset orange and buttercup yellow in a choreographed collection that echoed 'Swan Lake'. The models executed their task with the grace and control of ballet dancers, taking the audience to a visual space where nothing exists except the outfits. Pleat skirts on 50s style dresses appear alongside simply styled peasant skirts worn with headscarves.
Highlights include a white plastic coated remote control dress with flaps that rise like aeroplane wings before take-off and an air dress which was inflated on stage. Fine frills on sleeveless tops, hand painted prints on white dresses and apron style frocks are a major focus.
The collection's climax was the appearance of six 'ducklings' in bodiced sculptured dresses who daintily positioned themselves at angles before disappearing down into the stage itself. The humbled audience left the theatre talking in hushed tones. The collection transcended the venue's size and formal atmosphere and somehow made us feel as though we'd experienced an intimate glimpse of genius.