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Andrew Groves
The beating drums of an ANC song commanded full attention as Andrew Groves' monotone but multifaceted collection stormed into view. 'Nomkhul Bulwana' could be interpreted as a remarkable exploration of Black history, culture and stereotypes. Whatever the meaning of juxtaposing ragged rural materials (hessian, heavy cotton, linen and muslin) with sporty references (football boots and printed player numbers), it is a brilliant technical display of deconstruction, draping and fabric manipulation. Jackets, skirts and trousers are all given a new lease of life. Sleeves are tied together across the body and buttons are fastened on the side seam, with only a single lapel left to hint at the garment's former self. Trousers have double profiles: excess fabric is knotted at the hip of one side only, giving the illusion of a skirt. Tribal body paint, coiffed hair looped smoothly around crushed silver cans and a single giant haystack, all added conflicting messages to this interesting collection. |