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Just a year after graduating, former Central Saint Martin's student Tristan Webber showed his official debut at London Fashion Week. Flash black Jags and Daimlers lined Brick Lane after ferrying fashion's finest into the heart of the London Bangladeshi community. Inside the unassuming venue guests sipped cocktails, squeezed into their seats and waited. At a quarter past five (an hour and a half late) eerie Gothic sounds blasted forth and we were off on a strange journey exploring women as insects in 'Sanctum'. Last season, Tristan's collection featured every shade but black, so it's not surprising that this collection's colour pallete was dominated by black with the odd splash of silver and purple. Soft leather trousers, magpie collar dresses, exposed breasts under transparent tops or fitted jackets, diagonal slash skirts and sheath dresses are key elements. Models tiptoed along in wedge heels and stilettos, and posed in front of giant propeller fans. Most of the hair and make-up was high art Gothic with floor-trailing hair pieces which perfectly complemented the voice over from 'Apocalypse Now'. Tristan Webber delighted the audience with his innovative tailoring: each piece was a mastering of fabric, anatomy and architecture. But despite this huge talent, his idea of women as pencil thin, stone-faced gangling creatures is very scary.
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