fashionUK

It's easy to spot a make-up artist in London - they are usually the only funky people you'll see pulling a shopping trolley. For make-up artists, trolleys are a lifeline because they allow you to transport an entire kit without risking life and limb. Backstage at Alternative Fashion Week, the trolleys were cast aside as the kits came out and the pre-show frenzy began.

You might think that for something as nail-bitingly important as a catwalk show, the make-up is such a central feature that it's thought-out and prepared well in advance. This is not always the case, especially at an event like Alternative Fashion Week where many of the designers are 'show virgins' and relying the help of friends and family to get their collections finished in time.

The Rotor Babe modelling posse decided to bypass the need for a professional make-up artist and do their own. Huddled together in a corner of the backstage marquee, they worked out an effective rotation system with one person taking charge of eyes, one lips and another on extras like body glitter and Bindis. "We're just making it up as we go along," they told me. "I know nothing about make-up", confesses Lauren, "I never wear it, so I'm just going with what feels right!"

Kay collaborated with designer Rhian Hayes in the early stages of the collection before taking on the job of make-up artist. "We met up and discussed the themes ages ago," she explains. "I knew the collection was based on the sea, the blues of the sea and the reds and oranges of the sunset - so that's what we're trying to create with the make-up." For their final piece, Kay focuses on one side of the model's face and applies some body painting into the shoulders.

Natasha is a professional make-up artist who works for designer Dragana Perisic. "We're friends so I always do make-up for her collections," she tells me. I decide what to do based on the clothes. I'm creating a lot of heavy eye-liner on this model and using lots of red because she is wearing black and it will create a good contrast." For Natasha the eclectic nature of the collection means that she can experiment with several different looks at once. "If there was just one core idea behind the collection I would approach the make-up differently," she says. Limited to just ten minutes for each model, Natasha's two complaints are "lack of space and lack of time. Ideally, I would like to spend half an hour on each model, but I can't!"

Although Alessandra Beggio is showing at Alternative Fashion Week for the fourth time, this is her make-up artist Belinda's first show. "I actually want to work as a make-up artist and Alessandra has given me a chance to help out today, so I'm really grateful." By now it's less than an hour until show time and there isn't room to swing a mascara backstage so unsurprisingly Belinda laughs when I ask how she's coping. "You've got to try and make the best of it - but it is chaos in here. There are people charging around all over the place. It's fun though - this morning I was really worried but it's going well." Belinda's work started three weeks ago when she met with Alessandra to discuss the collection. "I wanted to do something Egyptian but with the space age feel of the clothes we decided to add lots of fluorescent colours." The designer has sourced fluorescent body paints which Belinda dilutes and uses on the face as well as the body. "The key is to go for something simple and striking because you don't have a lot of time or space here." Applying thick black eyeliner from the eye to the hairline and then adding diluted green body paint to the cheeks, Belinda achieves a strong look within minutes.

The key requirements for a show make-up artist is to be able to make the most of the little time available, know your kit and crack on not matter how chaotic things get.