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Some people have a fashion itch that must be scratched and if it bleeds they scratch it some more. Arkadius Weremczuk, known universally just as Arkadius, believes he was born to be a fashion designer. But in his native Poland he was "totally without fashion. A fish without water." He reacted by creating "my own fantasy world - I lived in my dreams and imagination." After studying to become a teacher he says he "escaped" from Poland and fled to Tuscany where he supported himself by waiting on tables. He saved enough money to get to England, enrolled in a School of English on London's Oxford Street and decided he didn't want to ever leave. "The first night I arrived I stayed in a hotel in Earl's Court which cost £12." he remembers. "I exploded - coming to London was the best thing that ever happened to me." Six weeks later Arkadius was out of cash and back in Tuscany saving tips. He returned to London again, found a job as a waiter and continued taking English lessons. Then something very remarkable happened. Arkadius applied and was accepted into Central St Martin's College and an anonymous Polish benefactor donated a large sum of money which enabled the impoverished immigrant to take the place. He hasn't returned to his homeland since arriving in London five years ago and becomes quite emotional when I ask if he misses it. "I miss the old Poland, the smell of hay, the countryside but I think Poland today is very different and that I should be quite disappointed to go there. I keep my old Poland inside." By Arkadius' second year at college he had come to the attention of fashion muse and living art installation, Isabella Blow. Through Blow Arkadius was introduced to Alexander McQueen who offered him a work placement. He launched his own label in 1997 and built up a small, wealthy clientele. His final collection was sponsored by 'The Daily Mail' and Browns, London's leading designer emporium, dedicated their entire window to the collection - the first time a student's work has been so honoured since Galliano. Through his PR company, Arkadius came to the attention of Swiss watchmaker Ebel who offered the designer the opportunity to create a dress based on Ebel's latest watch design. Ebel has sponsored Arkadius' spring/summer 2000 collection and they plan to take his work on a worldwide tour. "Ebel is now my benefactor," says Arkadius. Arkadius' graduate collection was stunning. Pieces included an amazing vase dress (which appeared on the catwalk complete with flowers and water) and an incredible Tibetan-style cape dress. A few months later, Arkadius' spring/summer collection was shown off-schedule during London Fashion Week. "I did apply to the British Fashion Council to be on the official schedule," he says. "But they just said, 'No. Try again next year'. I don't mind." The collection has aroused a mixture of fevered excitement and disgust. "This is sick," commented one member of the audience as a model appeared with bloody handprints on her dress. Shredded bodices, babydolls woven into garments and bloodied pregnant women walking to a sinister beat all added doses of drama to the fashion spectacle. "It's better to be extreme and get noticed," says Arkadius. From surreal puffball skirts to bulbous tops and slashed skirts, his clothes are not for the timid. Spending up to two weeks on a single garment would suggest that his heart is in couture but Arkadius is cynical. "Couture is actually dead, it's artificially kept alive to sell cosmetics and perfume," he admits. "I find it ridiculously overpriced." Arkadius sees himself moving into menswear soon and hopes to open a boutique with Ebel. He attributes his success to "giving 120% and putting a lot of time into communicating with people. There is so much competition in fashion so you have to get yourself noticed." There's every reason to believe that Arkadius will continue to create clothes that cannot be ignored. |
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